The Ukrainian Dumpling That’s Nourished Generations

Enjoy these cherry varenyky with a dollop of smetana (a Ukrainian sour cream) and plenty of melted butter.

• The fat from butter and sour cream coats the flour’s gluten proteins in the dough, resulting in a more tender dumpling.
• The addition of cornstarch in the sour cherry filling helps thicken the juice released by the cherries, preventing it from leaking out of the dumplings and guaranteeing a juicy filling.

One of my earliest memories of cooking is making varenyky with my family when I was a child. When deciding which dumplings to make, everyone, including my sister, parents, grandparents, aunts, uncles, and cousins, would lobby for their favorite dumpling. They'd argue over the best filling and how to prepare them—some wanted them boiled, while others preferred steamed. Some loved savory fillings such as mashed potatoes with caramelized onions or liver, while others preferred sweet fillings like fresh seasonal fruit or honey and poppy seeds. Then there was the question of garnishes and sides. Some wanted varenyky finished in lots of melted butter with dill, and others wanted them served with shkvarky (rendered fat with pork crackling) with fried onions. For sweet varenyky, a sprinkle of sugar is enough for some. For others, fruit varenyky are incomplete without a dollop of smetana (a Ukrainian sour cream), swimming in a pool of melted butter. 

The Significance of Varenyky in Ukrainian Culture

Enjoying varenyky isn't just about the delicious flavors and the joy in making and eating them with family and friends. We Ukrainians write songs, folktales, and poems about varenyky, and there are even proverbs and anecdotes centered around the beloved dumpling. Varenyky also frequently appear in Ukrainian literature; just read Hohol’s (Gogol) short stories and you will notice their frequent appearances. Their endearing, enduring significance is bigger than the little dough dumplings we pinch together and cook. The cultural importance of the dish is underscored by its widespread presence in Ukrainian culture. 

A gift of varenyky is meant to bring prosperity, fertility, and fortune. Traditionally, the dumplings are given to new mothers to provide nourishment and health, and to farmers to give strength before a harvest. They are the highlight of any celebration or special occasion, and even now, during the war, varenyky remain central on the frontline and in refugee kitchens. Community centers, families, soup kitchens, bakeries, and restaurants prepare varenyky for soldiers in the hope that a bowl of dumplings will bring comfort, evoke a sense of home, and lift morale. For refugees who have been forcibly displaced from their homes, making varenyky is a way of retaining their connection to their homeland while also helping to encourage them to explore their new communities by shopping locally for ingredients or sharing them with new neighbors.

A Uniting Symbol of Ukrainian Identity

Now more than ever, varenyky are a symbol of Ukrainian identity and a testament to resistance against Russian neocolonialism. Varenyky undeniably unite Ukrainians; we grow up eating these dumplings, which are part of some of the most important yet mundane aspects of our lives. Whether it’s having a bowl of steamed strawberry varenyky for breakfast, eating tiny mushroom varenyky on Christmas Eve, or just eagerly watching the water boil as the little dumplings finally float to the top, making and eating varenyky is part of what it means to be Ukrainian. And every Ukrainian family has a varenyky recipe they pass down from generation to generation.

An Abundance of Varenyky Fillings

As I wrote previously in my recipe for cheese-filled varenyky, there are many flavors and varieties of these dumplings across the diverse regions of Ukraine. In western and northern Ukraine, common fillings include blueberries, bilberries, wild strawberries, bryndza (similar to feta), poppy seeds, potatoes, kutia (wheat porridge), pumpkin, sauerkraut, cabbage, mushrooms, porcini mushrooms, pork, and beef. Those in central, southern, and eastern Ukraine enjoy dumplings filled with potato and onions, buckwheat, dried cherries, plums, fish, peas, cabbage, and even beans. Some of these, including those filled with syr (a Ukrainian cheese), potato, sour cherry, or blueberries, are national favorites and eaten throughout the country. And these are just varieties found in Ukraine—Ukrainians in Canada and the US have developed their own versions, with potato and cheddar being the most popular.

My personal favorite has always been sour cherry varenyky. Every summer, my family would use the bounty of fruit from local sour cherry trees to make trays and trays of plump cherry-filled dumplings. The tanginess of the sour cherries, the sweetness of the fruit sauce, and the creaminess of the crème fraîche combine to make it the perfect summer dish. In Ukraine, sour cherry varenyky are served both as a main dish and as a dessert.

Traditionally, fruit varenyky are served with unsalted butter, sour cream, and juices from the fruit used in the filling. You can also add fresh fruit and berries to the sauce, which I love doing when I have an abundance of summer fruit. Some cooks sweeten the sour cream with honey or an extra dusting of granulated sugar. For sweet varenyky, some less traditional toppings include a dusting of powdered sugar, a drizzle of condensed milk, and whipped cream.

These varenyky are a great way to use up peak-season cherries, but if you can’t find sour cherries, you can use whatever variety of cherry you can get your hands on. You can also visit your local Eastern European grocer to see if they carry any frozen sour cherries. If you use sweet cherries, the varenyky will lack the characteristic tartness of sour cherries, but will taste delicious nonetheless. And if you've missed cherry season or can’t find them at your local market or grocery store, this recipe works with blueberries as well. 

This recipe captures the quintessential flavors and characteristics of Ukrainian cuisine, and indeed, what it means to be Ukrainian. Plus: It's the perfect thing to make with your loved ones.

Recipe Details

The Ukrainian Dumpling That’s Nourished Generations

Prep 45 mins Cook 15 mins Total 60 mins Serves 4 Makes 25 cherry varenyky Save Print Cook Mode (Keep screen awake)

Ingredients

For the Filling:

• 16 ounces (454 g) fresh or frozen sour cherries

• 3 tablespoons granulated sugar (about 1 1/2 ounces; 45 g)

• 1 tablespoon (7 g) cornstarch

For the Dough:

• 285 g all-purpose flour (10 ounces; about 2 1/4 cups), divided, plus more for dusting

• 1/2 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt; for table salt, use half as much by volume

• 56 g unsalted butter (about 2 ounces; 4 tablespoons), cut into 1-inch cubes, and softened to about 65°F (18°C)

• 1 large egg, lightly beaten

• 1 tablespoon (15 g) sour cream

• 1/3 cup (70 ml) water, room temperature

For the Sauce:

• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 ml) reserved juice from frozen sour cherries (see above)

• 1 teaspoon cornstarch

To Assemble and Serve:

• 2 tablespoons Diamond Crystal kosher salt (about 3/4 ounces; 20 g); for table salt, use half as much by volume

• 56 g unsalted butter (2 ounces; 4 tablespoons), divided

• Sour cream or crème fraîche

• 4 teaspoons granulated sugar (optional)

Directions

1. For the Filling: In a large bowl, combine frozen sour cherries and sugar, tossing evenly to coat fruit with sugar. Refrigerate covered until fully defrosted and the fruit has released most of its juices, about 12 hours.

2. Using a fine-mesh strainer set over a 2-cup measuring cup, drain cherries; reserve 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons (150 ml) strained cherry juice. In a clean medium bowl, combine strained sour cherries and cornstarch, tossing to evenly coat. Set aside in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes, uncovered, while you roll out the dough.

3. For the Dough: In a medium bowl, whisk 210 g flour (about 1 2/3 cups) and salt to combine. Add butter, using your fingers to press the butter into flour until you have a crumbly mixture and butter is fully incorporated into flour, about 1 minute. Using your fingers, make a well in the center of the mixture. Add egg, sour cream, and water, and, using a fork, mix until a shaggy dough forms. Dust a clean work surface with remaining 75 g (about 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon) flour. Gently knead dough to gradually incorporate flour, until dough is soft, smooth, and all the flour has been incorporated, about 5 minutes. Return dough to medium bowl. Cover bowl tightly with plastic wrap and allow dough to rest at room temperature until soft and supple, about 20 minutes.

4. For Shaping and Cooking: Once dough has rested, turn out onto a lightly floured surface. Using a rolling pin, roll dough into a roughly 19-inch circle about 1/16-inch to 1/8-inch thick. Using a 3-inch cookie cutter (or a glass), punch out 25 rounds of dough. Cover dough with a clean kitchen towel and rest for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment, dust lightly with flour, and set aside.

5. To Fill the Dumplings: Place half a tablespoon (11 g) of filling in the center of each round of dough. Working with one portion of dough at a time, fold dough over the filling to form a half-moon while distributing filling to fit within it, and firmly pinch edges to seal. Transfer dumplings to prepared baking sheet. Repeat with remaining dough and filling. You should have 25 dumplings.

6. For the Sauce: In a small bowl, whisk together 1 tablespoon reserved cherry juice with cornstarch to create a slurry. In a small saucepan, bring remaining cherry juice to a simmer over medium heat, add slurry, whisking to incorporate. Cook, whisking constantly, until sauce has thickened and is syrupy and slightly viscous, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and set aside.

7. To Cook and Assemble: In a 6-quart pot, bring 4 quarts (3.8 liters) of water to a boil. Salt boiling water with 2 tablespoons and 1 teaspoon (about 3/4 ounces; 20 grams) kosher salt. Carefully add half of the dumplings to boiling water, gently stirring with a spatula or wooden spoon to prevent the dumplings from sticking to the bottom of the pot, and cook until dumplings float, about 2 minutes. Once floating, cook for 1 minute more to ensure the dough and filling are heated through. Using a spider skimmer, transfer the varenyky, shaking off excess water as needed, to a large bowl with 2 tablespoons (28 g) butter. Gently toss to evenly coat varenyky. Repeat with remaining dumplings.

8. Serve cherry varenyky warm or cold with plenty of crème fraîche, the prepared cherry sauce, and a sprinkle of granulated sugar or a drizzle of honey.

Special Equipment

Fine-mesh strainer, 2-cup measuring cup, cheesecloth, rolling pin, 3-inch cookie cutter or glass, kitchen towel rimmed baking sheet, large pot, spider skimmer or large slotted spoon

Notes

If using fresh sour cherries: Place fresh cherries in a medium bowl and cover with 57g granulated sugar (about 2 ounces; 1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon). Cover loosely with a kitchen towel and let sit until they begin to release their juices, about 3 hours. Using a fine-mesh strainer set over a medium bowl, strain cherries. Reserve cherry juice for the sauce to serve the dumplings with. Proceed with the rest of the recipe as written.

The filling is easier to use when cold and should be used straight out of the fridge. Do not let it warm up before using.

When filling and shaping the dumplings, gently press out any excess moisture from the cherry filling. Press the edges of the dough to ensure the seal is tight and that the edges are thin and even.

Dressing the varenyky in butter will prevent the dumplings from sticking and drying out.

The recipe can easily be doubled if desired.

Make-Ahead and Storage

Shaped, uncooked varenyky can be frozen for up to 1 month. To freeze dumplings, place them on a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment. Wrap baking sheet tightly with plastic. When dumplings are frozen, transfer them to a zip-top bag or airtight container.

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